Travel Diary: Saturday, September 2nd, 2000 - Kyiv, Ukraine

I awoke first thing on match-day to a sound I truly didn't want to hear, that of trucks, busses and cars sloshing through rain-drenched streets. The weather was cool with high humidity; one of those days where no matter how you dress you'll still feel uncomfortable. After a bit of dawdling, I finally pulled myself out of bed, got dressed and headed out for Maidan Nezalezhnosti to meet up with my cousin. He'd taken the overnight train in from L'viv and would be waiting for me.

Drinking under tents in the rain

After a quick cup of coffee, we went back to our flat to drop off his bags and then headed off to Andriyivskyj Uzviz to do some shopping. I'd forgotten my vyshyttia at home in Canada at Christmas-time and so needed another shirt to wear for the match!

The weather was still dismal as we walked, though the rain had eased off and we were all hoping for better than we had at the under-21's match the previous evening where we endured a downpour. As time wore on and the weather got even cooler, we decided it was time to head back and get changed.

Come four in the afternoon, we arrived at the arranged meeting place by the Zoloti Vorota and began to sink a few Obolon's and Slavutych's. Face paint was applied, songs were sung and fresh hugs as more and more people turned up. Sasha Hlyvinsky turned up with his camera crew to shoot some video of the diasporan support for his television programme "Futbol vid UTN". We gave the locals some stick for not knowing the words to their national anthem, let alone could they sing them at the match!

Meeting Sashko Hlyvinsky

With the rain still teeming down, we eventually started making our way down towards the Olympiiskyj complex. Coming out of the subway, the rain seemed to have subsided a little, but it was still going to be a heavy, wet pitch no matter what happened now.

As the teams were announced, the surprise as far as we were all concerned was the appearance of a Nigerian on the pitch. Emanuele Olisadebe had apparently only just become a naturalised Polish citizen two weeks prior to the match. As for our side, the pleasant news was that Andriy Vorobei was making his full senior international debut up front ahead of Rebrov and Shevchenko.

As the pre-match crescendo built up to its climax and the teams came out, a surprise was in store for the crowd. The Boyan Choir from Kyiv were huddled off the pitch due to the unfortunate weather but the soloists managed to pull off a magnificent rendition of the national hymn. Mind you, I still got funny looks from the locals as I sang along in full voice.

The match kicked off under a steady drizzle and the weather matched the opening couple of minutes - sloppy. Not only was it the weather, not to mention the pitch, that was sloppy, so was Ukraine's defense. For it only took a couple of minutes for Olisadebe to make his name very well known to us. A Polish attack up the left flank was crossed into the box and a static defense merely watched Olisadebe head the ball into the corner of the net. 0-1.

Beers with Boyan Choir members

That put the fox in amongst the chickens and pretty quickly the Ukrainians started storming back. Plenty of build-up led to few chances on goal however, before one moment of brilliance shone through the gloomy stadium. As the ball was being passed around from one player to another outside the area, Shevchenko started a run into the area. A pass was slotted through and Sheva swiftly outran two Polish defenders to latch onto the ball. He swivelled and launched a rocket straight over the keeper's head that crashed the underside of the crossbar and into the net! 1-1!

For the next ten minutes Ukraine dominated the possession and things were looking as we'd expected. But still there was too little penetration and too much reliance on Shevchenko or Rebrov pulling some magic out of their hats.

Things went from bad to worse then. A Polish cross was met by Kernozenko's fist and popped straight into the air. His attempt to catch it on the second attempt was foiled by a challenge from Olisadebe and the resulting rebound was thumped off the post. The rebound was cleared by the Ukrainian defense off a Polish shin and spun straight to Olisadebe five yards from goal. Kernozenko came out to challenge, but the Nigerian slid the ball under his arm inside the near post. A comical goal to concede and after only half-an-hour, we were down 1-2 on home soil.

By the half-time break, we were all pretty shocked by what looked a half-hearted effort, with no real organisation or evident strategy in place. Would things liven up in the second half? Would they heck.

The second half began as the first half finished, with Ukraine having the bulk of the possession, but losing it too easily as they tried to penetrate the Polish defense. Too many stray passes, too many far too daring runs, too many attempts at fancy play on a waterlogged pitch. Too many attempts at through balls, which on the wet turf just skidded out of play before the forwards could reach them. And the ever present threat of the Polish counter.

Relaxing in Maidan on Sunday

Then things sunk ever lower. A long through pass into the middle of the area released Kaluzhnyj who received the ball at the edge of the "D" and struck the ball into the far corner from just about the penalty spot, all while the literally static Ukrainian defense just stood there and watched him. 1-3.

From this point on the fight seemed to disappear and to make matters worse, the rain began to fall ever harder. The defense was pierced once more when Olisadebe was brought down in the area and a penalty awarded the Poles. But this time Kernozenko did the only thing he did right all night, having guessed correctly and dived left to save the penalty. No fourth goal for the Poles. But we weren't going to score either anymore.

And the rain poured even harder. We were cold and wet. And still the match dragged on before the referee finally blew time to put us out of our misery.

My cousin and I swiftly departed the stadium and walked back to our flat, swearing a blue streak at the team. But by the time we'd changed into dry clothing, had a bite to eat at the local Chinese take-out around the corner and made our way to O'Brien's for some beer, we'd calmed down enough to enjoy the evening. We chatted with folks from as far and wide as Detroit and Mariupol over not a few beers and had a nice, enjoyable evening until closing time.

Good results elsewhere as well, Armenia holding Norway to a draw and Belarus defeating Wales. We're bottom of the group after the first round, to be sure, but there's nine games left to play. Next stop, Oslo!

The table after round one...

Coming soon: Off to the land of the Vikings...

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